Written by Adam Sebastian West
Editor's note 30/10/2019: we are no longer stocking the Scarpa Furia. We will be bringing in the Scarpa Furia S in 2020.
When it comes to soft rubber and ultra sensitivity in a climbing shoe, the Scarpa Furia has got you covered. I have always been a huge fan of soft shoes and ‘feeling’ exactly what is beneath my toes, but the Furia starts with great sensitivity and continues with a solid all round feel, impeccable toe-down design and great consideration for even the tiniest of heel hooks.
The rubber, Vibram XS, is super soft and generally lives up to the reputation of ‘sticky rubber’. Because this is such a soft rubber, consideration needs to be given to the necessity of a strong foot as the Furia lacks the support of a more rigid construction. This definitely equates to optimal performance on shorter, technical and thinly features problems and routes, more so than all day adventure climbs.
The heel fit is always a tricky one with no two heels the same. However I find that even with a smidge of dead space in my Furia’s, pulling on even the smallest edge with my heel feels great. The only negative to this for me is the occasional sound of ‘foot flatulence’ as the air around my heel escapes at terminal velocity!
Overall this is a great shoe with some really practical features. The two velcro straps offer comfort, ease and all round firmness, particularly for those extra wide hobbit feel like mine! The toe-down front end and curved spine compliment this shoe with excellent snugness and compression and the extra little ridge on the heel completes the shoe with simple practicality.
The only downside to this shoe is that you may find a resole is required sooner than later as the soft rubber is also fast wearing. Of course this is also technique specific and and certainly encourages ballerina-esque foot placement for optimal longevity!
So it’s thumbs up and toes down from me on the Scarpa Furia.
You can find the Scarpa Furia here but we definitely recommend coming in to the shop to try a pair on before buying!
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