Welcome to the Sunshine State. Whether you live here or you’re passing through to see the family over Christmas, you probably want somewhere coolish to climb. Here is the Pinnacle Team’s top picks for crags to head to in Summer where you won’t cook like Chrissy roast.
For any Summer time adventures it’s especially important to make sure you take adequate water for the day. 2-3 litres is recommended preferably in a reusable bladder or container. A first aid kit which includes snake bite bandages is also highly recommended.
For all areas, climbers are custodians of the land that we use, to ensure we continue to have access to the areas we love and cherish, lead by example. Follow the Leave No Trace principals, adhere to Australian Climbing Association Queensland’s (ACAQ) code of conduct. Consider joining ACAQ the advocacy body for climbers in Queensland. Their annual membership equates to approximately 4 coffees.
Slider, Mount Tibrgogaran
Type: Single pitch sport climbing. Bomber volcanic rock. Very classy crimp and sloper power endurance at Upper Slider with good beginner climbs and variety at Lower Slider.
Best time of day: Usually in shade after 11am
Access: 20 minute walk from the carpark
Pinnacle Team Pick: Madder (25, ★★★)(Upper Slider)
Considerations: National Park, Carpool, poop responsibly
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Photograph: Victor Hall Photography
Pages Pinnacle
Type: Single pitch sport climbing. Beautiful bomber rock with lots of variety in style and grade. Gold Coast Wall features steep, long pumpfests on great holds. Massively fun.
Best time of day: Usually in shade after 10am
Access: 40 minute walk from the carpark. Steep.
Pinnacle Team Pick: Straight To The Green Room (26, ★★★)
Considerations: Steep walk-in on a fire trail that can get very hot.
Coolum Cave, Mt Coolum
Type: Steep and overhung single pitch sport climbing, kneebar central
Best time of day: A cool wind comes through at 2pm
Access: 10 minute easy walk from the carpark
Pinnacle Team Pick: Screaming Insanity (26, ★★★)
Considerations: carpool, be considerate of the suburban residents with parking and noise levels
Photograph: Mandar More
The Sanctuary, Flinders Peak
Type: Mostly single pitch sport climbing. Great variety of movement styles and holds for everyone. Not-so-bomber volcanic rock, helmet recommended.
Best time of day: Usually in shade after 11am
Access: When driving there, use instructions on theCrag.com - GPS will take you to the wrong side of the mountain. 25 minute walk from the carpark. Bit steep.
Pinnacle Team Pick: Lock Stock (21, ★★★) - mega classic warmup
Considerations: Conservation area, stay on trail, poop responsibly
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Photograph: Mandar More
The Cave, Flinders Peak
Type: Single pitch bolted sport climbing pockets to slopers and rails
Best time of day: In shade after 11am
Access: 40 minute walk from the carpark
Pinnacle Team Pick: Desperado (29,★)
Considerations: Carpool, poop responsibly, stick to existing walking tracks, keep noise to a minimum power screams are so uncool ;-) you may even see some rock wallabies if you’re considerate and quiet)
Photograph: Adam West
Cedar Creek Bouldering (North of Brisbane)
Type: Bouldering, good mixture of grades, swimming is an option
Best time of day: All day
Access: 20 minute walk from the carpark
Pinnacle Team Pick: Cosmic Dancefloor (standing V1, ★★★ | sit start V4, ★★★)
Considerations: Stick to the gorge, private land on 1 side avoid trespassing, site can be prone to flash flooding. Avoid visiting if the forecast is for heavy rain.
Photograph: Phoebe Appleby
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